Day 10 - Paulet Island and the way to Snow Hill Island (icebergs and whales!!!)

Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Morning: We arrived at the shores of Paulet Island, located off the northeastern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. The weather was sunny and pleasant as we anchored in front of a beautiful pebble beach. Paulet Island is 350 meters high and 1.5 kilometers in diameter, with a striking conical shape. The island is composed of lava flows, and its peak features a cinder cone with a small summit crater. It is part of the James Ross Island Volcanic Group, characterized by alkali basalts, with volcanic activity dating back to the Miocene. We went ashore using zodiacs and made our first stop at a historic stone hut, built in February 1903 by survivors of the wrecked vessel Antarctic under Captain Carl A. Larsen. These survivors were members of the Swedish South Polar Expedition led by Otto Nordenskjöld. From the hut, we hiked to a lake situated in a small crater. Shortly after, we split into two groups: one descended to another lake near the beach and returned along the shore to our starting point, while my group continued up toward the summit. As we climbed higher, the rocks became looser, and the slope grew steeper, making the ascent—and especially the descent—a bit tricky. At the summit, we found a small crater, a rock cairn built by the survivors to attract rescue expeditions, and a stunning panoramic view, though we had little time to fully take it in. After descending, we spent some time on the beach observing Antarctic cormorants with their striking black-and-white plumage. From a distance, I caught sight of a grave marker—a simple stick—marking the resting place of a 22-year-old crew member who died here. We returned to the ship and began our journey toward Snow Hill Island.

Afternoon: I went out on deck and stayed there until late evening, even having dinner brought to me so I wouldn’t miss a moment. As we traveled, the number of icebergs increased, and at one point, the way ahead seemed completely blocked. Captain Eric took the helm and skillfully navigated the ship through narrow patches of open water, an incredible feat. We saw many humpback whales, including a playful pair that swam near the ship for a while. Later, we were treated to the sight of their majestic tails framed by a breathtaking backdrop of ice. As the sun set, the water turned mirror-like, reflecting incredible colors. Then, as if the scene couldn’t get more magical, a massive moon rose on the horizon. I ended the day by toasting to all this overwhelming beauty with a glass of aged Dutch gin and spent some quiet time in the library. Now, as I write this, I can hear the ship cutting through the ice—it’s a bit rough but seems well under control. Time to head to my bunk and rest.