February 24 - 28, 2020 – Boarding in Ushuaia - Beagle Channel - Drake Passage
After exploring Ushuaia, at 5 PM, we boarded the ship, settled into our cabins, and spent the night docked in the port. After raising anchor, we navigated the calm waters of the Beagle Channel, towed by an Argentinian pilot who guided us through this stretch. By the end of the channel, we set the sails to begin the journey south. Crossing the Drake Passage was rough, with constant seasickness alternating between vomiting and sleeping. The waters calmed on the last day, and we enjoyed sightings of albatrosses, cape petrels, dolphins, and fin whales.

Saturday, February 29, 2020 – Elephant Island - the first sight of Antarctica !
Seeing Antarctica for the first time was overwhelming, and I couldn’t hold back tears. In the bright sunshine, I took in the dramatic glaciers, rocky cliffs, and busy colonies of chinstrap penguins at this historic spot where Shackleton’s crew survived four months of isolation in 1915. A statue of Captain Luis Pardo, who led the rescue mission, stands as a tribute to their survival.

Sunday, March 1, 2020 – En Route to Danger Islands - the first icebergs
During the dog shift, we navigated through rough seas and growing icebergs, enjoying the challenge of spotting and zig-zagging around the ice. As the day progressed, the increasing density of icebergs and a spectacular sunset created unforgettable views.

Monday, March 2, 2020 – Danger Islands - the first landing
We explored Heroina Island, spotting penguin skeletons, guano-covered shores, and Adélie chicks, while also enjoying the sight of a leopard seal on an iceberg. After lunch, a zodiac ride offered incredible encounters with Weddell and leopard seals, as well as a dramatic seal hunt on a lone penguin.

Tuesday, March 3, 2020 – Paulet Island, icebergs, and whales
Landing on Paulet Island, we visited a historic stone hut from the 1903 Swedish expedition and hiked to a summit with spectacular views of fossils and volcanic terrain. In the evening, cruising among icebergs and playful whales culminated in a magical sunset reflecting on calm waters.

Wednesday, March 4, 2020 – Snow Hill Island and Sea-Ice Walk
At Snow Hill Island, we visited the 120-year-old Nordenskjöld hut and marveled at ammonite fossils scattered around the small hill above it. In the afternoon, we walked on sea ice in bright sunlight and observed a crabeater seal with distinctive white circles around its eyes.

Thursday, March 5, 2020 – Vega Island and James Ross Island
At Vega Island, we explored green moss, permafrost, and a crabeater seal skull while admiring krill-filled waters and surrounding hills. At Naze Point, we climbed sediment and basalt formations to canyon-like structures before the wind forced us to return to the ship.

Friday, March 6, 2020 – Devil Island and Duse Bay - the most special birthday!
On my birthday, we landed on Devil Island, hiking its windy volcanic terrain, spotting Adélie penguins, and enjoying adventurous climbs to high points with stunning glacier views. In the afternoon, cruising through glacier-covered Duse Bay revealed crushed ice and spectacular scenery, and I was surprised with a birthday cake and calendar.

Saturday, March 7, 2020 – Brown Bluff and Esperanza Base
At Brown Bluff, we walked among penguins and fur seals. We saw penguins building pebble nests. In the afternoon, we visited Esperanza Base, home to 60 residents, and admired its museums, chapel, and post office before sailing toward the South Shetlands.

Sunday, March 8, 2020 – Greenwich Island and Half Moon Island
At Greenwich Island, we walked along a beach filled with fur seals and transparent ice pieces, while cliffs hosted chinstrap and macaroni penguins. On Half Moon Island, we explored a 200-year-old whaler’s boat and an Argentinian base, walking through penguin colonies with stunning views of Livingston Island.

Monday, March 9, 2020 – Deception Island
Deception Island’s volcanic terrain provided stunning views from rocky cliffs, abandoned boats hiding sea lions, and remnants of its whaling past. At Pendulum Bay, we dug into the warm volcanic sand, swam in the icy water, and marveled at penguins and sea lions enjoying the geothermal heat.
Day 17 - 22 - Return - Drake Passage, Beagle channel and Ushuaia

The Drake Passage was again challenging, but thankfully less intense this time, allowing me to take part in more shifts. Seeing green vegetation as we neared the Patagonian shores felt like stepping into a new world. We celebrated with a big party as we entered the calm, protected waters, finally landing back in Ushuaia to find the world completely changed by the COVID pandemic. I was fortunate to return home safely, even spending a few days on the tropical Isla Grande near Rio de Janeiro. Meanwhile, the crew embarked on an epic journey to sail Bark Europa back to Holland—a feat only a few could handle. I am so grateful for the privilege of spending some special moments with adventurers of these days in a unique and untamed environment of Antarctica.